There is another European Riviera in Croatia starting about an hour south of Split and centered around Makarska. I stopped there not to schmooze but to tackle the second highest peak in Croatia, Sveti Jure, at 1752m located in Biokovo National Park. And the vertical gain was almost the entire height of the massif since I would be starting only a bit above sea level so it was going to be a bit tough especially with the heat.
First stop was the park office which was closed but fortunately the tourist office in the same building was open and I was able to procure a pretty good park trail map. Also, I was told the one way hike from Sveti Ivan (a small church in the village of Makar a bit above Makarska) would take me 7 hours. I found that difficult to believe but left the apartment at 05:35 so by first light at 06:00 I would reach the start of the trail in Makar.
At the trailhead a park sign said the hike would take oy 5 hours one way so I was feeling a bit better about being able to get back to Split before it
was too late. The trail was in good shape and shielded from the sun for the steepest part and I made really good time to the base of Voač peak by 07:50. I did not tag that peak even though the views were reportedly great as I wanted to reach the objective and hit Voač on the return if there were time. From there the trail was more or less flat along the plateau and I blazed to Sveti Jure by 09:50.
Did not dawdle on the summit as it is tower and the true summit is prohibited so I made it back to Voač by 11:40. Even though I had plenty of time I did not tag the peak as it had gotten very cloudy around the summit and there were good, unobscured views down the trail on the way back to Makar. Reached Sveti Ivan at 13:25 and just caught the 14:00 bus back to Split.
With the direct boat not in service this summer it was more or less obligatory to spend a night here to tackle Sveti Jure.
a last minute deal at Makarska Apartments M&I. Never met M or I but it was a small, clean efficiency with a bathroom for €22 or 166Kn. Grabbed a 41Kn margherita pizza at Domina near the bus terminal which was big enough for a late lunch and dinner. Also in the vicinity is Palma bakery where I bought a double espresso (which I chilled in my apt fridge) and a croissant for a brekky and a cheese burek that I would take on the trail along with a couple of Clif bars for lunch. The bakery total ran 40Kn for the 3 items.
Transport Bus to and from Split was 55Kn each way, 5Kn of which is a terminal tax avoided by buying the ticket directly from the driver. There were a lot of people milling about and I did not want to take the chance of that bus selling out so I bought the ticket before boarding.
Center of all manner of transport in Dalmatia... international airport, buses to all corners of Croatia, train station, and ferries to several islands as well as Italy. Aside from Diocleatians Palace, not much to keep the traveler
here for more than a couple of days. I had 3 days, mostly chillaxin after the long trip from Seattle via Frankfurt.
and food Emasculating name aside, Backpackers Fairytale Hostel is an OK place to stay in Split. I paid 430Kn including the increasingly annoying city tax for a 4 person dorm with AC. The hostels main drawback is being on the 5th floor with no elevator. Nearby is Fast Food Gricko serving the national food, ćevapi, for 27Kn. St. Burek prepares the other national dish, big meat or cheese bureks for 13Kn. Best place was Restoran Index, like a USSR stolovaya, cafeteria style but pretty, pretty good and cheap, for a substantial meal. Great public market between the hostel and the water but many sellers pack up by 14:00.
Transport Jadrolinija catamaran to Bol was 55Kn, took an hour. Continuing from Bol to Hvar also with Jadrolinija was 100Kn even though that was also an hour. Croatia Airlines runs buses between SPU and the terminal every 20 minutes for most of the day. Unlike intercity buses, no fee for baggage in the hold.
