Woke up early, chilly out but toasty in those quilts. Such a beautiful place to sleep! Took a wander down to the river, light was pretty special. Had breakfast with the Israelis, they run an organic flower farm and are well travelled. We share rice with milk, jams, tea and bread. Mohammed and I take off for a 5km return hike to the next village and lake . Its mostly a gentle grassy uphill walk, whenever theres an uphill though I get out of breath really quickly, its annoying. Lots of little streams, trees, flowers and bird life once again. Wander around the lake for a while before backtracking. By the time we are back at Muniras the early chill has lifted and its warm and sunny. The sun brings out the aroma of apricots and hay. Have a quick coffee before retracing yesterdays steps. For some reason it is way, way easier... I cant predict my fitness at all, or is it because it was all downhill?! Sun is getting hotter by the minute, we catch up with the Israelis, they
are going to hitch a lift with us to Rushan where their jeep is parked. The couple from the first village yesterday then overtake us, they wonder if we might drop them in Rushan as well? As does a local guy we meet.... So by the time we get back to the swing bridge we have 8 people plus backpacks/luggage/food provisions/spare tyres, etc to fit in the car. After much deliberation its decided that we can only fit the tourists. I feel horrendous leaving that poor villager man behind. Karma bites us though as Mohammed has left my walking pole that he borrowed from me on the other side of the bridge. Theres a little old box contraption on the other side- it used to be the way villagers would get to and from each river bank, we had stopped there to take some pics. So we have to drive back there again anyway- theres no sign of the villager but M breathes a big sigh of relief when he finds my pole. Finally we are Khorog bound...
with lamb chunks, bread and tea. I have no idea how you would identify it as a restaurant, to me it looks like a garage. Theres a 1969 Indian movie playing on the TV, this is followed by a dubbed The Italian Job (the original version). I am loving these random experiences. Good meat soup. Its 5pm as we arrive into Khorog, the busiest place Ive seen for a few days (pop 30 000). It is the administrative centre of GBAO, we have our permits ready! I am totally parched, very dusty but very happy, another great day. Bakaar pulls into a big hotel (well more than 1 storey tall) perched on the river with a view to the dominant mountain- The Kivekas (named after a Russian General who saved the town). Saidali, the owner of my is mates with the owner, I get even happier as I get led to a palatial room on the 3rd floor with an ensuite!!!! It is massive, and amazingly clean.. and with soap...and shampoo! I get 2 hours to my self before dinner. Such a treat.
only half a km away. The restaurant we end up is called Chor Bagh, its in Central Park and quite busy. The set up is in a pavilion with either chairs and tables or another pavilion traditional on the floor, I opt for the floor as we are closest to the river and it feels better. The meal was the most average and the most expensive to date. Also I have gotten really spoiled with the tea in Tajikistan - we have been having massive pots of tea with tea leaves, at this restaurant it was Lipton tea bags in a tiny pot (boohoo)! Plan for tomorrow- meet at 06:30 sharp for breakfast. Ideally another day in Khorog might be interesting but its not in the program... other places to go.
Pleasant stroll back through the pine trees - looking forward to my big room... which of the three beds will I sleep in?
