Having enjoyed our rest day and another good sleep (despite it being much busier the second night with a youth group having some sort of a disco near us) we set off sharpish to get back into Burguete and on the trail. Although still an incline, the trail was much steadier for the first half, gently climbing and meandering up and down through beautiful woodland. We also began to see rocky cliff edges and outcrops as we noticed the scenery beginning to change, and we caught up with a new hiker today! He is actually Spanish and doing part of the GR11 but, after trying and realising we would not understand much our relationship became a mutal wave and conversation as we leap frogged eachother the rest of the day (next couple of days actually!)
Today also went through two small (tiny) villages both with an open bar/restaurant, which was nice for cold drinks and icecream. The second one in Hiriberri was particularly nice
as the lady was very friendly, despite our limited Spanish, and it had a real local vibe as the nearby men all arrived for their siesta time, and the baker and butcher arrived honking horns for everyone and get what they needed from their delivery van. It also had a lovely shaded seating area where we spent a few hours trying to stay cool and resting. Only downside was there was a lot of flies! ‘Moscas
It was also here that we briefly met another Spanish hiker and caught up with our Dutch friend, who, as it turns out, had met and was now walking with two other Dutch women. Then, as we continued to rest while they walked on, another Dutch girl appeared! Now later and slightly (ever so slightly) cooler, we chatted as we walked up the beginning of the hill together. She was heading for the very top but, knowing it was still a way and that it to passing the ridge line before being able to stop, as well as having to water load for that night and the next day (as there would be no more water points
until the end of the next day) we opted for a flat spot before the incline increased and began to zigzag up into the woods.
And we were glad we did, with the last water point (cattle trough with pipe - edged with barb wire that had a fight with Paul as he tripped into it; luckily just a couple scratches easily cleaned with just down from us, a gorgeous view and now cooler air, we cooked, stretched, and looked at the trail up, before easily settling to sleep.
7am - 1:30pm with regular short breaks, 30mins food break on ridge top, 20mins foot break before descent, and 20mins water break at Muskikda chapel
Opening the tent this morning gave a spectacular sight; a cloud covered valley so still and cool in motion. Looking around we then realised we too, were part of that cloud, as it whisped around and above us. It made for a darker start, but was light enough to walk by the time we had retraced briefly to top up with water (cue quiet Spanish guy
passing us) and were ready to go. The steep incline zigzags up through the trees, with glimpses of gorgeous views of cloud cover increasing as we got higher and higher. Reaching the ridge, we were glad we didnt attempt it last night, with rocks and roots everywhere it was a lot of concentration to avoid tripping. Finally out the other side, the landscape opened right up, showcasing the low cloud covering all the dips and valleys with hill and mountain tops peaking above.
Continuing on we rejoined the new Dutch girl who had just finished packing up from the night and walked within her again, only to then bump into the other three Dutch ladies! The rest of today ended up being a mix of walking with and without these guys as we varied paces and number of rest stops, as well as continuing the leapfrogging with quiet Spanish guy. Walking high, the views just kept giving today (catching our first real views of the Pyranese mountains! Gulp!) and there was a lovely cool breeze which really helped.
