After a surprisingly good nights near Boscastle Harbour I woke up to a colourful sunrise introducing another day of unbroken sunshine. It was a short easy walk along the cliffs to Tinatgel where I treated myself to a night at the Headland Campsite. Most campsites seem to offer a reasonable rate for walkers, but not here. After two long days and the beginnings of a blister I really wanted a short day, so I paid up. It was a lovely campsite, with very friendly staff, just expensive for a solo walker.
Tintagel was bigger than I had expected and was as thronged with holiday makers as I had expected on such a fine day. After exploring the town, I enjoyed a couple of pints of Sea Fury in the Tintagel Arms hotel. Later in early evening I went to exploreTintagel Island. It was closed for the day so I explored the cliffs, beach and cave under the island. Its easy to see why a place like this associated with legends and stories.
My lazy day worked a treat. My feet recovered well and the blister came to nothing. I set off early to get a few miles covered
avoiding the hottest part of the day. A buzzard soared by as I approached the 11th Century church of St Materiana.
Just past the YHA Hostel I met a lady from Exeter, we had a great walk and chat past some old quarries as far as Trebarwith Strand where she stopped to go for a swim. I continued on and at Jacket point the walking got a little more strenuous with a series of short, but steep climbs nd descents. A pair of peregrines jetted past me, and a jet streaked along five miles above us.
After lunch in Port Isaac during which I managed to avoid gull attacks, I took refuge in The Golden Lion to escape the heat. It was a lovely little pub. There was space on the gun deck outside, but I choose a quiet corner inside.
I saw my first chough of the trip at Kellan Head as I was starting to look for a camping spot. The musical kyaw anounced its arrival. After a dramatic tumble it landed on the path a little behind me. For five minutes I watched it parade up and down, its red bill flashing in and
out of the fading sunlight. A couple hundred metres further on I found a little hollow on the headland. Dozens of rabbits hopped into the vegetation as I approached. A gannet dived into the calm sea searching for its fish supper.
I pushed in the last peg as the sun touched horizon. After arranging my gear for the night I sat outside and sipping a wee dram of Quiet Man Whiskey I looked back along the coastline retracing in my mind the route I had just walked.
Port Quin was only a mile or so further on. I set off early and found a slow worm warming on the path on the descent into Port Quin. I had my breakfast by the slipway watching a couple of pairs of kayakers and a snorkeller set off on their adventure for the day. Doyden Castle overlooked the next climb. A sign told me it appeared in episode 1 of Doc Martin. A chough perched on the cliff below it.
Polzeath Beach was crammed with people and todays refuge for me was a lovely shady terrace at The Waterfront just behind it. Refreshed, I enjoyed the easy walk around the
I wasnt intending to go much further so I spent a couple of hours exploring the narrow streets and enjoyed a portion of chips in a shelter near the harbour. Beyond the harbour the coast path continues uphill past a war memorial, alongside the beach and on up Stepper Point. A little past the stone tower that was a day marker I found another perfect hollow just off the path. I was surprised to find a collection of painted stones to My CODA Love. I have no idea what that meant, but coincidently ini Derry CODA is the acronym for City of Derry Airport. Once again I erected my tent by the light of the firery descent of sun. After another long day, for me anyway, of sixteen miles I had my little nightcap.
A dog snuffling round the tent at 6am woke me up. I got up a bit later and had water and wraps for breakfast as I darent light stoove.
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