Gozos not that big, about five kilometres from one side to the other, so we set off on a drive, figuring that if we keep going for long enough were sure to find something interesting. We dont have to wait too long. The set of salt pans a kilometre or so west of Marsalforn is the most extensive collection weve seen in Malta so far, all laid out in neat geometric patterns on the flat rocks a metre or so above the waterline. And this lot is very definitely still a going concern. Unlike all the others weve seen, there are signs here warning us to keep out on pain of death, well maybe not quite, but the message is clear enough. We read that theyve been here since the early 1800s, and the same familys been operating them continuously since 1969.
We decide to head for the Ta Cenc Cliffs which are on the south or opposite side of the island. We cue the Google machine and wait for it to whirr into action. One thing thats been particularly noticeable since weve been driving here is that the number of steps/turns/veers/slides/take the third exits or whatever required to go
anywhere is about two orders of magnitude greater per kilometre than were used to back in Oz. Its rare to go more than a few hundred metres here without having to do something other than go straight ahead, and the messages were used to hearing in the back blocks of our homeland, eg continue straight for three hundred kilometres, well theyre something we can only dream of now.
The Google machine takes us to within half a kilometre or so of the cliffs, but it seems were on our own from here. The rocky path leads us through farmland separated by the usual generous helpings of dry stone fences. The cliffs are absolutely stunning; we thought they looked big and it seems we were right - 120 metres big according to the ever reliable Wikipedia. And weve got the whole to ourselves. The latter is more than likely due to it being midday and ridiculously hot; most sensible people are probably currently either inside under their air conditioners, in the sea, or in a bar. The other notable feature of life out here is the large number of small stone sheds; and small is the operative word
. like a maximum capacity of one. Some also have small outside porches attached to them, also with a maximum capacity of one. Some of the porches are even furnished, one with a disused car seat - very creative. We walk a kilometre or so along the cliff top; the views from all along it are absolutely spectacular.
So now its time to find our way through the rocky landscape back to the car. But thatll be easy, because yours truly remembered to note a landmark when we parked - a large Maltese flag on a tall pole. I was feeling very smug at the time, but the only thought in my head now is a wish that the Maltese werent quite so patriotic; we can see at least three large Maltese flags on tall poles on the horizon and weve got no idea which ones ours. We also managed to leave our water bottle in the car, and were starting to feel more than a tad parched. I hope we find it before we expire.
Back in Marsalforn we go for a quick dip from the small sandy beach at the head of the bay. Its almost
too warm in the water to be refreshing, and the frequent nips on our feet from small fish are slightly off putting well we assume theyre small fish; I guess we should be grateful were not back home being nibbled on by Great Whites or crocodiles.
We enjoy another very pleasant waterfront meal, and then pull up some front row seats to the rock concert in progress right in front of our apartment. If we were hoping to get an early nights sleep we might need to think again
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