I really like Harpers Ferry. Geographically, scenically, geologically, infrastructurally, it has it all. The two defining rivers of the together, sweep through the mountains and flow East in a wide swathe of swirls and ripples. The in over a unique series of transverse rock formations, causing a long sequence of parallel cascades. The old town clings to the steep banks on the South side of the Potomac. To the North a black rail tunnel punches a hole in the rocky crag which defines the Gap. A broad road bridge crosses to the East. A 200 year old canal crawls up the northern side of the Potomoc. If you stand on the railroad bridge connecting Harpers Ferry to Maryland, you can see it all.
And then the forests of West Virginia were over, replaced by placid Maryland farms. Everyone was cutting, baling, moving hay in the 90 degree heat. It was impossible to follow the route which switched from road to road, creeping Northwards at a snails pace. Eventually one hits South Mountain, Cunningham Falls and Catoctin State Parks and reverts to the straight forward gravel road standard. After getting lost trying to get around Camp David
(where everything seems to be closed off), I surfaced in Pennsylvania and the Michaux State Forest. What a relief ! The well maintained gravel road follows a valley with long straightaways and easy turns. In the shade too, what a delight ! Intent on navigating the road, I had forgotten it was July 3. All of a sudden I crossed into a state park with a lake and dozens of people kayaking and camping and getting ready to enjoy the 4th of July weekend. Not a mask to be seen, though we were all outside and did keep our distance. North through the forest along South Mountain and Pine Grove Furnace State Park the campsites were full.
I did spend some of my time lost in the forest. Sign posting is sparse, and the GPS track I follow only provides information on significant turning points onto new roads. I did flag down another biker and ask for directions. He took off his helmet, smiled, said yes, he was from around here, but was as lost as I was. Didnt matter. As long as he was riding somewhere he didnt much mind where. I smiled and thanked him and thought
