Today is Christopher Columbus Day, a national holiday to celebrate the discovery of America. As a result nothing has been formally booked for today as its unclear what is and what isnt going to be open.
The kitchen is unusually busy today too. A French couple are at the table, suitcases at the readythey must be leaving. Then an older German to use the kettle. They are on their way to Cadiz with their son who is at Madrid University. We eat a quick breakfast then head off in the direction of the mushrooms.
Despite the thirty degree forecast for today, its still feeling pleasantly cool outside today. We are heading for Santa Cruz, the Jewish quarter. Here we find interesting narrow wiggly streets full of architectural detail. By 10.30am the place is crawling with groups so were glad we made an early start.
Weve reached the city walls and the Alcazaba. Seeing the length of the queue to the ticket office, Im glad we managed to buy ours online. A guy at the exit door gives me excellent advice ahead of our trip tomorrow.
First we pass our bags through a scanner then walk through the arch. My metal hip does not set it off so I can only assume it isnt working? This building is the main archive of Spains Americas empire, with over 89 million pages spanning 1785 to the end of the nineteenth century. A statement if its former golden age of power.
Ian is unimpressed, its just a load of box files, he states! But there is more than meets the eye. The architecture is splendid. Downstairs, an open quadrangle courtyard and a few scale models, an old canon and the ‘book of the month in a glass cabinet. But now we mount a magnificent staircase in hues of pink and brown to the upper floor. Here the walls are lined floor to ceiling with more books. There are displays of bullfighting photography - not something that I would like to see but still a part of the Spanish culture and, indeed, theres a fight on today to celebrate the National Day.
We are out in the fresh air again and its noonnot excessively hot still but this city has the advantage of many large leafy trees and
Next to the University. An impressive building on the outside closed todaywe will return before we leave! We also pass the swanky hotel Alfonso XIII - its a wonder they let us in! Its another old building now the resting place for those that can flaunt itnot really our scene but we pop in for a quick photo.
Were at the outskirts of the city, outside the old inner walls so we will wander back past the outside of the bullring which we somehow managed to miss the other daynot sure how?
We have arrived at the bullring and now we know how it was missedits hidden behind rows of shops. We wander through an archway and find an enclosed circular white and yellow walkway which takes us to the front of the building.
In the streets we hear music and see police cars with blue lights flashingall part of todays celebrations. We head on past the tapas bars, which are heavingnot a table to be had. If this is Seville when its half empty (and they claim it is because of
We return to our to enjoy a healthy salad - actually very niceand at least we dont have to hustle for a tablecool down shower and siesta.
We have really been enjoying the Spanish tapas, creamy ham croquettes. So when we saw them in the supermarket along with fish in batter we decided to take some and cook them in our kitchen. What a disaster - truly terrible! Tomorrow we revert to eating out even if it does mean waiting till some ungodly hour. I do understand why they eat so late here as its still quite hot and muggy till around 8pm. Just that its a huge change in routine for us!
We decide to go for a saunter. We have not seen Hercules Square yet. Its only minutes walk from our place. As we have often found, the square is buzzing. Children are playing while parents sup at tabernas, couples are canoodling, and a girl sits cross legged on a bench playing some kind of board game with her partner. Its all very relaxed.
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