This morning was earmarked as a rest day but as the weather is looking better for the side trip planned for tomorrow we decide to reverse the days.
Although overcast today, it is not hammering with rain and there does not appear to be such a heavy black cloud over the mountain as we experienced yesterday!
Our trip involves making our way back towards Egilsstadir, in fact almost all the way there, before taking a right hand turn down another ‘there and back only road for a mere 98km each way. Ian remarks that the van is now half full of fuel so wed better fill the tank in Egilsstadir on our way back. Should we do it now? No, it will be fine for today.
The road to Bakkagerdi looks fine - metalled and just a tad narrower than the main roaduntil we reach the roadworks that is! Weve only been on the road for around 10km when the nice tarmac suddenly turns to stones followed by black rubble.
Hmmm, I reckon the road is going to be like this all the way now grumbles Ian. Dont be silly says I, its just some roadworks (I
After thirty odd kilometres of roadworks Ian is huffing big time. He doesnt like the look of this and by the way we are in danger of running out of fuel! What? We started with half a tank? Yes but apparently the low gear coupled with automatic transmission is gobbling up the diesel big time.
What to do? We are almost half way there and the roadworks have to an end. We decide we will run it to quarter tank and turn back if we are still not there. No chance if there are any hills mutters Eeyore Ian.
Thankfully the road is now very flat, skirting round the side of the sea and well sealed though I can see a steep hill (mini mountain?) beyond. Best not to mention that I think!
Are we still above a quarter tank, I ask. Yes! Ouch, quick check, yes my head is still attached to my shoulders. Apparently its digital so theres no needle to watch, when its gone, its gone. OK, OK, OK. Im not quite sure why its my fault but apparently it is. I think I
now know why this road is nicknamed ‘The Haunted HighwayI have a feeling someone is in grave danger of being strangled!
At last, we have arrived at the tiny hamlet of Borgarfjordur Eystri and the fuel gauge is still reading three eighths. We pull up at a notice board which lists the places of interest in pictorial form. It seems like most of them are hotels or cafes. The main point of interest is the puffin watching platformsanother 5km down the road!
Fortunately, whilst I was checking out the info board Ian has spotted a self service fuel station. Phew! And ya boo sucks to you google mapswrong againit may be a tiny hamlet but they do have fuel!
OK, panic over and huffing ceased, we set off to explore the village. First is an iconic red tin shack covered in turf. I am horrified to see a tourist poking their camera into the windowthe guide book says its a private residence! Turns out the book is out of date tooits now a museum but, as usual it doesnt open till 1pm.
So now we are off to see the puffins, with a much lighter heart that we wont be walking back 100km in search of fuel
Another steep little hairpin bend hillside brings us up and down to a small harbour and a well made path leading to a bird hide. The puffins are everywhereapproximately 7,700 breeding couples according to Ian. And all very tame too, we can get up very close even without the help of the hide.
Time for lunchI do love it that we can just nip into the back of the van for a sandwich and a brew whenever we feel like it!
And now for the return trip to the campsite. It appears to take much less time thats only because we now have plenty of fuel!
Half way up through the unmade road we find a van blocking our way. Its one of the workmen. He wants to tell us that they have just laid some new tarmac so we should not drive on the ‘black bits.
