Having been to Gallipoli twice before, both times just before Anzac Day to visit the historical sites and then for the Dawn service, I wasnt sure whether a third visit would be a bit same same. But visiting in summer, when its hot, and away from Anzac Day, when its far less crowded and more peaceful, brings a different perspective. Bringing kids (Im hot, how much longer, can I have icecream) also changes things slightly.
We arrived in Eceabat after an early start and long drive from Istanbul. A few refueling stops along the way and we were pleased to see that conditions were overcast with a very strong breeze whipping up the Dardanelles keeping the temperature reasonable.
A quick lunch stop before we collected all the other Aussies and, inexplicably, an Italian and headed for the Anzac sites. First stop kapatebe for a map orientation and a strategic overview. Next stop Beach Cemetery for Simpsons grave, then Anzac Cove and another cemetery (replete with resident tortoises, to the ubiquitous dogs) at Ari Burnu. Another stop at the memorial site before heading up to the battlefields.
saw the names of approx 3,000 lost soldiers, including a 14 year old who had signed up with false ID and lost his life. Difficult to imagine sending your teenager to a foreign land never to see them again.
The girls enjoyed the trenches at Johnstons Jolly before we had the chance to visit the Turkish memorial to the 57th Regiment of which Ataturk was A quick stop at The Nek to learn of the battle on 7 August and the four waves of soldiers who went over the top to their inevitable demise due to an error in planning and a 7 minute early finish to the shelling.
Last stop was Chunuk Bair to hear about NZ achievements and the lucky escape experienced by Ataturk due to his pocket watch. Everyone was pretty hot and tired by then so we jumped in the bus back to Eceabat for some air conditioned relaxation. A wander along the promenade and some dinner before retiring to bed.
Enjoyed a sleep without the dulcet tones of the call to prayer at various points through the night before being picked up and taken back to Anzac Cove for our
snorkelling adventure. There were already some Aussies in who provided instruction on avoiding the sea urchins.
After some necessary panic and angst, we all managed to get into the beautiful clear water before paddling out to the wreck of the Milo. It was used to create a wave break for North Beach but now sits in relatively shallow and beautifully clear water and is easy to see and access (assuming you are not subjected to merciless attack by resident sea urchins). Had a lovely time splashing about, checking out the fish and the well preserved wreck.
Braved the imposing beasts and rocks to make it gracelessly back into shore. Back to Eceabat for a quick shower and the ferry to Canakkale. Picked up our rental car (and almost another cat) before blindly following the advice of google maps and heading for the hillsliterally!
Suffice to say that we picked the ‘path less travelled and traversed cow routes, goat farms and dirt mountain switchbacksto arrive a few minutes later on one of the most modern toll roads wed been on. Enjoyed a quick lunch stop in Can, which looked like a pin prick on the map but
A long afternoon drive and we finally arrived in Selcuk. Checked in to the hotel before heading out for a quick dinner, together with audience of cats, spurred on by the offerings of fish, chicken and beef which mysteriously disappeared from our plates.
