In Andorra we find we have no mobile phone coverage, which is unexpected for a country in the middle of Europe, but Andorra isnt in the EU and things are a little different here. My Australian Sim does not work at all and my British Sim works but has outrageous charges. Given the size of the country, neither it seems has cared to setup a full roaming agreeing with Andorra For us it makes little difference as we have wifi in the apartment, but is a good reminder to check the small print and be careful. Stories of $1000 roaming bills are a thing of the past but Andorra T sucked up a few pounds of credit I had on my UK sim card before I realised I wasnt using my normal roaming pack and was on PAYG rates for data.
From Carcassonne it is an easy drive into the Pyrenees and on to Andorra. On the way we stop off for lunch at one of the Cathar castles, Chateau dUsson, but it is only open at weekends and judging by the amount of tourist information perhaps not busy even then. There is a myth that the
Cathar gold is hidden here as this was one of the last Cathar strongholds to fall and the Cathar treasures had previously been moved here.
The first town in Andorra, El Pas de la Casa is little more than a collection of stores perched on the side of a 4000m hill and has all the aesthetic appeal of an Arndale centre. We stop for a coffee and watch the French visitors piling their cheap booze, fags and perfume into the boots of their Peugeots.
Once over the pass were soon down to the ski resort of Soldeu and El Tarter our base for the next 4 nights. The town(?) is a collection of holiday apartments, but they have been built in the local style and our place even though the river is a little noisy and as we are in the highest block is is a 15 minute uphill walk from the nearest shops which are all along the main road at the bottom of the hill.
We do 3 days hiking here but also visit a couple of local historic sites – a small church and a larger that was rebuild
The first day hiking is in the Ingles Valley up to lake and refuge Sorda. Next day we try the south side of the valley where we have seen the operating, but for some reason they seem not to be running today so we find a place to park and hike up to the top of the ridge taking care to avoid the mountain that is taking place. The 3rd day hiking is perhaps the best. From the end of the Ransol valley we follow the river up to 2 lakes. J waits here while I keep going up to the summit of Pic de la Serrera (2913m) the 3rd highest peak in Andorra and on the border with France. Great weather again. This is fine hiking country, fantastic scenery, plenty of manageable trails and for the keen the option of staying in mountain huts that seem to be quite numerous.
