(including lots of small breaks) and with 3 hour siesta midday at picnic site (just off trail) and 1.5 hour break in Bera
Ready and raring to go (and pretty nervous!) we set off from the safety of our hostal in Irn in the cool morning air, nice and early, with the intent to get most of the climbing done before the midday heat. And what a climb out of Irn it was! Long and steep in parts, we started sweating immediately and were grateful for the working toilet and water taps at the top. The trail then continues bending up and down more gently, and gracefully under the shade of lots of trees. When we hit San Anton chapel at the reservoir before 11am, we were feeling sweaty but good. It was now getting hot but we had surprised ourselves at how well we were doing and felt it was too early for our initially planned siesta there (it would be a good spot though with lots of lovely shade and
working water point- the restaurant there was shut when we were there). Instead we filled up with water and continued the trail, feeling grateful for the ongoing tree coverage.
We then detoured off the trail, to reach what the map says was a picnic site with water point. There were picnic benches and lots of shaded grassy areas, with a cool breeze and good view, but the water point was dry. Thankfully we had enough water to rest for a while but knew wed now have to reach Bera for more water, further then planned, as we would not have enough for a dry camp before (we had bypassed the marked water point at the farm with barking dogs by taking this route, but others said it was only a trickle, and the other possible waterpoint was dry). This high ridge section had little shade and was hot, but we made it! Bumping into another couple (Italian&German) and girl (Dutch), we met earlier, sat in the shade waiting for the shops to open after their siesta. After chatting a while, with the hostel seeming expensive and still feeling ok, we bought some food bits from the shop and topped
up with water with the fountain by the hostel (extra heavy!) and left Bera behind. Amazed we felt we could keep going, our enthusiasm dipped quickly as the ascent out got steeper and steeper. The extra weight was definitely not helping nor the fact it hadnt really cooled that much. But again, we made it! Met at the top of the hill, Larrate Gaina, by the couple again, there was plenty space to all cool off, cook & pitch up before sunset. Tired but optimistic, we settled slowly (still hot) to sleep.
(including lots of small breaks) and 1hour break at Lizarrietako Lepoa and 4 hour siesta at marked picnic site on trail
After a restless night (my brain decided to freak out about bears - Ive been assured theres none in this part - and well, the first night wild camping always feels edgy) we were slower to get up. We also found a leak in our water filter squeeze bag and my top bag zip broke so this delayed us further, but we were still away early enough to enjoy
the cooler morning and see the sun rising. As we dipped down (trickle of water source found a nd used) we met a German guy and we spent the first 3minutes trying to talk to eachother in Spanish before realising none of us were native and English worked best (he can speak 5 languages!) We hiked together a while, winding up hill under tree coverage, to the border line at Lizarrietako Lepoa with two restaurants, waterpoint and toilets;a cold drink here defiantly welcomed.
Continuing on, the sun got hotter and we made it to a marked picnic site with lots of shade and a, broken but so working, water point. It worked so strong it made do for a hose down and clothes rinse. We enjoyed the cool breeze and constant water here for a few hours, meeting all our trail mates again and chatting, before setting out again at 4pm. It was definitely not as cool as we had hoped think well learn soon) but bearable. Again though, the extra weight from water carrying, up a long steep climb, was tough.