The incredible and magical Giants Causeway has awed and astounded millions of tourists over the years with its mystique and uniqueness, but long before it became easy for world travelers to journey to the County Antrim UNESCO World Heritage site, wonder has always surrounded the story of its creation. We know now the true yet still amazing reason for its existence and how the 40,000 interlocking basalt columns perfectly shaped into hexagons, were created through volcanic activity some 50 to 60 million years ago. And yet, with the mystical atmosphere that hangs over the mighty Causeway, it almost seems that the myths and legends that have been told by storyteller after storyteller (and Im about to add myself to that list), would make for more appropriate tales.
My story begins when I boarded a coach in Belfast for a tour of the northern coast and County Antrim. I was lucky enough to grab a front seat behind the driver, which afforded a clear frontal view for excellent photo taking. Again, very overcast skies and chilly – I expected a deluge at any minute, but surprise, surprise, I got thru the entire day without a drop of water
making an appearance – my climate luck is obviously holding. Our onboard guide was Gavin and Ciaron was driving. Two Irishmen with accents to match.
Leaving Belfast on a major highway, we began the approximate drive to Whitepark Bay, home of this stunning World Heritage Site. Of course, being in Ireland there has to be a myth, right? And of course, the Giants Causeway is no exception. There are quite a few versions of the same myth, depending on who you talk to and which country (Ireland or Scotland) youre in at the time, but they do relate very similar events. This is how it goes.
Mac Cumhaill (aka Finn McCool) was a mythical Irish He was not considered to be a giant, but in the case of the Causeway legends, he is almost always made out to be one, or at least of extraordinary height. Some say he was 54 tall but that is no doubt an exaggeration? Due to the sharing of the same myth with Scotland, the Causeway is sometimes told to be a collection of steppingstones allowing Finn to travel at will between the two countries without getting his feet wet.
Many of the popular versions of this tale do include a link with Scotland, thanks to the same pattern of hexagonal columns appearing across the sea in Staffa, a Scottish island which can be seen from the Antrim Causeway.
A second version of the story claims Finn was in love with a giant woman living on Staffa and the Causeway was built as an attempt to bring her back to Ireland.
The most popular one (and the one Im voting for) revolves around a local rivalry and an excellent piece of deception. A giant named Benandonner, aka Red Man, was believed to roam Scotland. Finn and the Red Man did not get along to say the least, and Finn challenged his Scottish nemesis to a fight, while they shouted and threatened each other across the water. Building the Causeway so he could reach his biggest enemy, Finn moves rocks from Antrim into the sea, this new pathway only to discover that Benandonner is his biggest enemy in more ways than one. Benandonner was, in fact, much larger that Finn.
Scottish giant, but unfortunately it isnt long before he is spotted, and Benandonner gives chase to the Irish heros home in County Kildare. Finn runs as fast as he can back home, losing a boot in the process and there is no Cinderella story in this case, the boot remained exactly where it was and is still visible at the Causeway today.
Having found himself in a world of hurt he wasnt sure he would survive; Finn turns to his wife Oonagh who thankfully swoops in to save the day. Wrapping her husband in a bed sheet and telling him to climb into their sons crib, she Benandonner at the front door, apologizing that Finn is currently hunting deer in County Kerry.
