Having spent the morning exploring Bangkoks khlongs (canals) in a long wooden boat and ambling through the serene but crowded Wat Pho we returned to Siam Unique Hotel to prepare for our overnight train to Chiang Mai. We settled on thick wooden chairs in hotel alcove and worked on our travel notes, only venturing into the searing afternoon heat to pick up some snacks from a nearby store. It was a great place to reflect on our time in Bangkok, and to prepare for our northward journey.
In the late afternoon (around 4pm) we jumped into a minibus and headed to Hua Lamphong railway station in the heart of Chinatown. As we walked in, we immediately recognised the place. Wed been here nine years earlier, and nothing seemed to have changed. Groups of people were sitting on the floor in the spacious waiting area; the same food stores lined the first floor and mezzanine walls; the same was operating just inside the entrance. We had picked up a few bao (Chinese steamed buns) from this back
in 2011, and suddenly we found ourselves at the counter. Nostalgia is an emotion we rarely feel, but we couldnt help ourselves. Mirroring our actions from all those years ago, we picked up a pork, bbq pork and custard bao for the trip.
A noticeable difference this time around was the ban on alcohol, which couldnt be consumed or carried on the train. The only other real difference was the newness of the train itself. We were so looking forward to the trip. We settled in seats and prepared for the journey. We knew an attendant around at some stage and convert our seats into the bottom bunk, which was to be my bed. Ren was taking the top bunk.
We left Bangkok at 6:10pm sharp, which is exactly the time we were expecting to leave. Unlike other major cities, there didnt seem to be any evident poverty bordering the rail tracks on the outskirts of Bangkok. We slowly crawled out of the city and made our way north to Chiang Mai, munching on our nostalgic bao as the sun set on the horizon.
taking our dinner orders on a tattered old notepad that had seen better days. We decided to share a meal (which Ren regretted deciding to share when it was placed in front of us). The meal had a number of including spicy soup, fried chicken with cashews, roast duck red curry, jasmine rice, banana cake and fruit. It was to be served at 7pm, and we didnt doubt it. This train seemed to run like clockwork, so we expected the meal to arrive at 7pm – sharp!
It actually arrived 10 minutes early. Talk about efficient! It was served in a large plastic tray with a for each The roast duck red curry was superb – very spicy and tasty. The fried chicken with cashews was quite good for train food. The spicy soup (mushroom) was refreshing and clean, but the ‘spicy title was misleading, because it had no spice to talk of. The only disappointment was the orange cordial. Fresh pineapple rounded off the meal, and we stored the banana cake as a future snack. This was a different dining experience, and one we really enjoyed.
were converted into bunk beds by a friendly and efficient train attendant, and we crawled into them at 8pm. I slept reasonably well, although the temperature inside the carriage increased considerably during the night. This was in stark contrast to earlier in the evening, when we had to put on as many layers of clothing as we could access, because the system had been working overtime, pumping freezing cold air into the carriage.
We woke at 6am to the slow swaying and lurching of the train. It was still pitch black outside, but it was good to feel refreshed. Sleeping in a bed with a tiny curtain between you and the aisle can be daunting, but luckily there was little movement inside the carriage during the night.
Wed ordered hot tea to be served in the morning, and I was desperately looking forward to it.
