Next stop was the coastal village of Palm Cove, just north of Cairns. We stayed at the massive Novotel Palm Cove Resort, which was about as far removed in style and ambience from the laid back peace and quiet of Great Keppel Island as it was possible to get. The tennis courts, large gym, and golf course with its attached pro shop were a bit wasted on us - the parents of three youngsters under eight. Our only prerequisites were a Kids Club and a pool. We didnt think it to get around the resorts jogging track at a satisfactory pace every morning and then follow it up with a brisk 18 holes, but given the numbers of our fellow guests who seemed to be doing exactly that it was hard to be sure. We spent a lot of time lazing by the pool and wandering the very pleasant foreshore of Palm Cove village.
We thought we should at least attempt to drag our offspring away from the Kids Club for a day and show them some of the local sights. We thought wed chosen wisely with a round trip to Kuranda up on the Atherton Tableland inland
from Cairns. Everyone did indeed seem to enjoy our ride up there via the eight kilometres of Skyrail Rainforest Cableway over the spectacular ancient tropical rainforest. Its supposedly the worlds oldest such habitat at 180 million years, and is apparently tens of millions of years older than its famous Amazonian cousin. Perhaps unsurprisingly our offsprings enthusiasm seemed to wane a bit as we wandered through Kurandas apparently well known markets, and by the time we climbed aboard the Kuranda Scenic Railway for the return trip, sleep seemed to be about the only thing on their minds. The railway was built in the late 1800s, and its fifteen tunnels were dug using picks and shovels. If that wasnt enough to impress the masses, what about the 37 kilometres of track through thick rainforest and the 37 bridges across cavernous ravines. But no, the snoring continued, interrupted only by the very occasional sleepy are we there yet dad? Id clearly failed in my duties as an engineer father. Well at least Issy and I enjoyed the day.
We decided against subjecting our youngsters to more sightseeing, so they stayed at the Kids Club while we spent a day heading north. Now
Ive been on some spectacular coastal drives in my time - the Great Ocean Road from Apollo Bay to Port Campbell, and the Amalfi Drive immediately spring to mind. I reckon however that the road from Cairns to Port Douglas has got to be right up there with the best of them - steep jungle clad mountains dipping into turquoise waters - it takes a bit of beating. We left our hire car in Port Douglas and joined a tour group to take us into the depths of the rainforest. First cab off the rank was a boat cruise along the massive Daintree River in search of crocodiles. If what wed been told was anything to go by we wouldnt have needed to look too hard. It seems that this is crocodile central. We were warned to keep our hands and feet well inside the boat, as these creatures can apparently smell tourists from a mile away. We were told that the local fishermen always needed to be sure to moor their boats high up on the bank as the crocs were well known for lying in wait for them to return. And if you were unlucky enough to
fall off a boat or the ferry, well goodnight nurse. We crossed the river on the ferry and then continued on through the rainforest to the legendary Cape Tribulation where the rainforest meets the reef. Its apparently seriously wet there. We were told that some parts of the forest have sometimes received more than nine metres of rainfall in a year. Nine metres! Clearly no need to turn the sprinklers on too often.
We wandered nervously onto the Capes spectacular beach past signs warning about crocodiles, sharks and deadly marine stringers. The beach looked peaceful enough, but there was clearly no shortage of dangerous critters lying in wait to make a mess of our day.
