We took the Southern Scenic Route drive to Invercargill from Manapouri. Were struck by how little traffic there is down here and how good the road surfaces are. A scarcity of bloody great heavy trucks might have something to do with the latter. South through Borland, Clifden, Tuatapere where we stopped for some lunch and had our best cheese roll to date as we attempt to connoisseurs of the mighty roll. Then on through Riverton to Invercargill where we stopped only briefly before heading for our bnb on the road to Bluff. The bnb was spacious we dropped our bags and drove out to Bluff in the early evening. Desperate for fresh blue cod fish and chips. Yes! Perfect.
We only had one day left here and were keen to go to Stewart Island for the day on the morrow but werent so keen when the forecast looked a bit iffy. Wed been warned that the one hour trip across to Rakiura could be a real test of ones stomachs in a fresh breeze so we were thinking of flagging it. Went to bed, woke, looked at the forecast and decided at the last minute to try
to get on. So, raced to Bluff and got the last couple of tickets on the Foveaux Express. The catamaran jumped around a bit but wasnt too bad as the swell, while quite big, was well spaced out and we both felt fine.
Stewart Island hove into view at Halfmoon Bay, the small town of Oban. Quite a bit smaller than we both had pictured. To get a seat on the 20 seater bus we had to scarper off the boat to the ticket office and got the last two seats. Our guide took us on a one hour leisurely trip around a few kilometres of the Islands few roads giving an entertaining and on local history and events. Worth it we thought. One of our main objectives while there was to have Stewart Island blue cod and we managed to do that at the local (only) pub, the South Sea Hotel. Bloody great tasting, textured, fresh, flavourful fish! More perfect than the night before in Bluff.
The island is a world of its own. One feels like one is in another country. We both felt wed like back to spend a few
The trip back was dead calm across the feared Foveaux Strait which we surprised to learn from the skipper, is only 10 to 15 metres deep. That would account for the fast developing short, steep pitched waves that make the crossing one for delicate stomachs like us to approach with caution and watch the forecast carefully. Not natural sailors.
Next day we packed up and drove to the Catlins area. First to Fortrose, then along to Slope Point, the southernmost point of the South Island and the obligatory photo evidence. Then Curio Bay, a rather unique part of NZs coast with remnants of ancient coastal forests still extant. Curio Bay has been really well set up for visitors with a small audio visual display in rooms attached to the Cafe which presented a clear and entertaining overview of the geological and human history of the area. there were short walking tracks well signposted, penguin colonies, porpoise sightings (not by us), petrified forests, all with well maintained explanatory boards dotted along the way. Wed like to spend more time there.
Further east through Waikawa, Chaslands to our bnb spot of Papatowai. Our bnb reeked character and quirkiness. A small, self contained building presented with flair and an eye for the different. Outside our window Bellbirds (Korimako) were feeding on nectar put out by our host. Neither of us had ever seen Bellbirds up close but as I was unloading the car they were only two metres away ignoring me. Beautiful sounds and sights. We settled down for night in memorable surroundings. Karen, our host, was as full of quirkiness and character as the digs.The only minor drawback was the outside bathroom, only a step outside but on a cold night with a bladder like mine........or like some of my friends whom I wont name.
Up and about early, ready to go to Owaka to have a look around and meet up with the Tooles, Lindsay and Diane, who were travelling in the opposite direction to us.
