Many years ago, decades in fact, when we were travelling by car in France, the traffic rules there were quite different from today. In particular, cars, even when trundling along at speed on a major road, were expected to give way to vehicles joining from side roads on the right.
As a result, when driving there Paul, who essentially does all the driving when we are overseas (except when he breaks his wrist bungee jumping - see blog from 2015), developed the French twitch - an instinctive slight turn of the steering wheel to the left when passing junctions with traffic on them.
Fast forward to now and we have the Albanian twitch. This in part is because the quality of driving is such that several times whilst in urban areas cars have muscled their way in from side junctions. But also because, on research, we find that on roundabouts cars going around the roundabout are expected to give way to traffic entering - totally the opposite to UK rules. But also that this roundabout rule is only loosely observed.
to first stopover at Shkodr (see previous blog), Shkodr to here in the mountains at Theth, and then the return journey to Tirana on Saturday coming.
The Shkodr to Theth drive on Wednesday was one of those drives that Paul likes to describe as interesting and Pip likes to think of as do we really need to be doing this!!??
Although from the main highway to Theth was only 57km, it took around 2 1/2 hours with just a couple of short stops.
Tarmaced all the way, this was not the case as recently as around 12 months ago. Until then the latter 1/3, down from the roads highest point, was just a rough, potholed track, suitable only for 4x4s. Even so it is not the widest of routes, and with traffic, rough edges, and around 40 hairpin bends it is definitely interesting / do we really need to be doing this!!??.
What Paul hadnt appreciated from the maps is that it is a pass road. That is, it climbs to a high point pass, at 5750 feet, and then Theth is back down the other side in a valley, at around
Although the road to Theth is now fully tarmaced the roads within and beyond Theth are not, and gives us a reminder of just why we would not have made this drive over just a year or so ago.
Theth itself is a somewhat strung out settlement stretching a long couple of kilometres along the valley floor, with the valley river cascading down and along one side of the valley (rather than central to it), and the lodges and dwellings typically on large, grassy plots.
Not much general infrastructure. We think there is only 1 specific restaurant, though most of the guesthouses provide their own catering. A few small coffee places, barely huts with tables mostly. A small general store, that seems to be particularly well stocked with beer. And no petrol station, but we knew that and had stocked up accordingly.
It seems that every noticeable house here is a guesthouse of one type or another. Lots of new extensions, or recently added floors, or works in progress.
aforementioned potholed roads, and our room is in a separate, 2 storey side building. There are 4 rooms on our landing, and at dinner evening there are nearly 30 of us sat at tables. But only 2 other cars parked outside. Clearly some people are more sensible enough to let others do the driving 😊.
On Wednesday the group of 4 sat next to us were from Sweden. They had arrived by train (though needed a flight for the final leg into Albania) and were working their way back to Sweden overland via Croatia, Italy, Switzerland...., though winging it week by week. They had walked into Theth via a 9 hour trek by the areas most famous hiking trail, the Theth to Valbone Trail.
Incidentally, that trail is around 13 km. However, if you are inclined to want to drive from Theth to Valbone MapsMe tells us it is a drive of 350 kms!!
Just from looks & outfits alone there are clearly some very serious hikers making their way here.
