Rising in the vast Arnhem Land Escarpment, the Katherine River (known to the Jawoyn people as Barraya, meaning Blossoming Kookaburra) flows through a fault in the sandstone escarpment, forming a vast gorge system framed by spectacular cliffs. In the Wet Season the river rises up to ten metres, flowing unimpeded through the entire gorge system at a speed of up to 40km/h. In the Dry Season however, the river falls significantly and a series of exposed rock bars divide the gorge into different sections separated by small sets of shallow rapids, with the various navigable stretches of river being referred to as the First Gorge, Second Gorge and so on, continuing upstream as far as the Thirteenth Gorge some 16km away.
And though freshwater crocodiles are right at home in this sort of ecosystem (there are estimated to be around 140 freshwater crocodiles living in Katherine Gorge, with around a quarter of these found in the First Gorge) occasionally the odd saltwater crocodile (actually an estuarine species) makes it the full 380km upstream from the mouth of the river to the gorge - usually these are young males who have been chased away by larger males (who are extremely territorial)
from other prospective territories further downstream. As a result of this, the rangers at Nitmiluk NP survey the gorge system for saltwater crocodiles before allowing kayakers to enter the gorge each Dry Season. This involves both and aerial spotting, baiting and trapping, with any saltwater crocodiles being relocated and a full weeks passing without any sightings before the okay is given to open up the gorge system. Any salties that do make it this far upstream are likely to only make it as far as the First Gorge, so this remains closed to kayakers and swimmers just in case.
Having secured myself a rental kayak for the next two days, I was down at the boat dock by 7:45am (Thursday 29th July) to for my boat transfer to the start of the Second Gorge, only to be told that I was not allowed to leave my backpack there - despite having been told the opposite four days earlier - meaning that I had to leave it under a nearby tree until I returned the following afternoon! Thankfully I elected to put my rain cover over the top - despite the fact that the chances of
any rain falling were virtually zero - as this was right in the heart of the resident flying fox colony and I didnt particularly want to return to a backpack covered in bat piss! But with the prospect of spending two full days in the heart of Katherine Gorge to look forward to, it would take a lot more than this little setback to sour my mood.
After enjoying a leisurely cruise through the First Gorge, we disembarked the boat; grabbed our life jackets, paddles and kayaks; and hit the water. Although there were 46 kayakers in all, the vast majority were only or hires - most of whom would make it no further than the Third Gorge (which is also as far as the tour boats go). So with a full day ahead of me to make it up to the campsite in Sixth Gorge, I waited for the crowds to disperse before setting a leisurely pace through the Second Gorge, revelling in the majesty of those spectacular cliffs rising up sheer out of the water on either side of the river.
a queue had formed, as people of all shapes and sizes tried to figure out how best to negotiate the short portage that led up through a shallow set of rapids to the Third Gorge. Never having had to portage a kayak before, I figured that the best way forward would be to stick to the main flow of the stream - so as to use the water to take the weight of my kayak - rather than trying to lift it over the rocks to the side of the river as most of the other people seemed to be doing.
