Kulikalon Lake (2980m) to Alovaddin Lake (2180m). High point for day 3780 m- elevation gain 800m, loss 1240m as we drive back down to Iskanderkul (famous) and ultimately Kahramon (not even slightly famous, I cant find it on google maps or any search function).
Got to start early in order to meet our pickup at 1200. Im awake at 5 anyway. Lie in my trusty S2S Trek 3 bag and soak in the whole surreal experience. I start packing up as the sun hits the glacier. Again a helper arrives at 0630 to help me with my tent- too late Im all over it. My turn to cook breakfast this morning- porridge with pears- very delicious actually. We squash into the big tent for this- my position is in the back right corner next to the veges- they say its because Im the shortest, but I think they want to trap me in the tent so that I cant get out and do any more work. We are totally packed up by 0715 and heading up the hill out of the basin. Hard slog but easier than yesterday, I think my rhythm has kicked
in. The lake recedes quickly. Considerably cooler this morning, glad for an extra layer. By 0830 were back at 3400m, take a break at 3440m under an intensely blue sky with eagles calling as background music. At 0938 finally reach to top of the Alovaddin Pass- a super windy and cold 3780m. Only 10 minutes to take it all in before the next descent. Off in the far off distance are 2 clear deep blue lakes. So the descent.... down, down, down, dusty, down. Dusty, windy, sunny, dusty, wind burny down. The all purpose sarong takes on face mask duty.
It takes just over an hour to reach the Alovaddin Lake area- its set up as a holiday camp with camp sites and cold drink stalls. Somehow I end up there first and am offered a chai by an elderly Tajik- cold tea has never been so refreshing. We leave and cut back into meet the lakes, they are intensely blue and fed by waterfall.Noticeably warmer by now. Lots more photos are taken as we head down stream. Casually cross a couple of rivers (streams really if Im honest). There is grassy pasture and the of cows, camps
Bang on 1215 our driver appears, I am sure he is surprised to see me looking like an energiser bunny- last he saw me I was pale, sweaty and vomiting discretely in random places. Picnic is promptly set up- Shafar has boiled up some eggs, we also have bread, cheese, coffee and melon, all on top of my sarong tablecloth (with traces of sweat and dirt). Post picnic payment and tipping is done. We also load him up with food for his return journey. I wonder if he will ride one of the donkeys- its a huge dusty, scree climb back up that hill. He says hes aiming to sleep at the vicious dog/sheep pasture tonight and be home tomorrow. Lovely man, very generous. A great experience.
And... then were back off on a super bumpy drive through towering rocky landscapes. Cows, donkeys, house, farms- the full green and brown package. The dirt hills turn red, villages appear, villagers wave. We reach Iskanderkul at 4pm. Iskanderkul is named after Alexander the Great, it is a glacial lake and forms part of a nature reserve of significance for its bird like. It is
also a popular tourist destination, not today though- theres no food venues open and only 1 place with available because of a big local wedding. Im happy just to drive around as much of the lake as we can (about 1/3) and move on. TBH after the last few days of sheer magnificence and solitude Iskanderkul is a bit underwhelming. We drive to the main road, Mohammed cant get anyone on the phone in his search for a guesthouse. We end up at a place opposite the public toilets and market/depot. Its called Kahramon Chaikhana and Guesthouse, it looks fine from the street (the guesthouse, not the loos). But first- dinner at a roadside diner. We drive there.
Jumaboy is the owner of Kabob House of Jumaboy. Hes a very friendly fellow who quickly arrives with the first meat of my trip- its either lamb or goat, Im not sure, but its spicy and tastes pretty good.
