It looks like time goes by slowly here in sleepy Katherine, with no one seeming to care too much about its progress. We see lots of the local indigenous folk sitting about and wandering slowly along the main street, seemingly without any need to hurry. Before we make our getaway I first need to make a quick dash into the chemist to get a prescription filled. It looks almost deserted, but Im told it wont be ready for about half an hour. I wander the streets impatiently waiting for the thirty minutes to pass. It seems however that the pharmacists of Katherine are not familiar with the concept of a quick dash; half an hour and a bit later Im told that my script‘s still not quite ready, but it will be in about half an hour. Hmm. I think I may perhaps be struggling to adapt to the pace of life here; time really doesnt seem to matter, particularly, apparently, if its mine. I ask very politely if I could please have the prescription back, and then try very hard to pretend that Im not fuming as
I storm out of the shop with smoke pouring from my ears. A few blood pressure pills might in handy about now.
We stop at Pine Creek to stretch our legs. We follow a sign up what must be the worlds steepest and windiest track, to the Mine Lookout. Were in a lot of trouble if we meet the other way. There are three viewing platforms here. There‘s a large lake in the valley below us that we can see from one of the platforms, but there arent any signs to tell us anything about it, or what were supposed to view from the other two. We agree with the only other people here that were obviously supposed to know what were looking at, and that we must all have been asleep the day of the school lesson on the history of Pine Creek. We then happen to notice through the thick grate that forms one of the other platforms that its sitting over the top of a bottomless mine shaft, and its sole purpose in life seems to be to stop you from falling into it. Hmm. We consult the Google machine.
It seems that an open cut gold mine operated here for ten years from 1985, and its now been filled with water to prevent acid build up. Now surely that information wouldnt have been too hard to put on a sign.
Were hanging out to reach the remote Mary River Crossing so we can take a rest break. Hmmm. It seems we may have to hang on a little longer. A sign tells us that the massive car park is open, but the roadhouse, the only other thing here, is closed. I suppose its vaguely possible someone might want to stop here just to admire the bitumen
We stop at a park office to buy our mandatory entry passes. We read that Kakadu is the countrys largest national park. When I came here in 1980 the only available was a tent, but it seems that here, unlike in Katherine, time has moved on since then. Were booked into the famous Crocodile Hotel in Jabiru, so named because its shaped like a crocodile when viewed from the air. This is a bit less obvious from the ground, but Issy advises me very confidently that the entrance to
reception is va the creatures mouth. She says well know this soon because it will suddenly close on us when we try to go in. Such a vivid imagination.
Kakadu seems to be crocodile central. There are a couple of swimming pools at hotels and caravan parks in the Park, but if you try to swim anywhere else here you seem certain to end up as croc food. Were told that theres a lake in the middle of Jabiru township, but go anywhere near it at your peril - crocs can be seen sunning themselves on its shores on an almost daily basis. Our hotel rooms on the ground floor, so we take careful note to make sure that we lock and bolt the door before we turn in tonight.
I leave Issy lazing by the hopefully hotel pool, while I head out to Nourlangie Rock. This is a beyond spectacular monstrous monolith, which looks even more so in the late afternoon light. I follow a path along the base of the Rock past several indigenous rock art sites.
