It was a famous market place near the river Skern. Bishop had a massive manor house where the premier Inn and Darlington DL1 leisure centre stands today.
A spectacular bright full moon (Worm moon because bettle larvae begin to emerge from the thawing barks) motivated me to explore the universe. I booked myself for an event in the dark sky reserve of Keld village in Yorkshire dales. Time to put on my boots and go on a nature discovery.
I took National express overnight bus from London Victoria to Darlington. That evening, watched Agatha Christies play- Witness by the Prosecution in London County Hall. A full house and the play was a courtroom with some excellent acting. Having read too many mysteries, I guessed the twist and so it was not that much fun. Comfortable in overnight bus?
Did better in my return journey with a quieter seat at the back, my jumper for a pillow, slept across the seats and slept on without bothering to get down the bus in 30 mins break.
It was lovely to see dawn break in Darlington with the town centre lighting up and the bells of the watch tower. Unfortunately the local bakeries strictly served after 8 am. Hence, it was Greggs – a cheese pasty and coffee. It was a 1 hour ride on local bus X26/27 from Darlington to Richmond. Richmond is the mother of all the Richmonds of the world and means the strong hill in Norse.
Being the only passenger, it was a delightful ride in the countryside, see the daffodils, snow bells, wild garlics, streams and hear about life in Yorkshire dales from the friendly driver.
We drove by the river Swale- the fastest flowing river in England and called the Jordan of England. It was in big shape with elaborate waterfalls at Richmond by the ruins of the Richmond Fort but down by Keld, a little stream with plenty of playful waterfalls.
Keld was an important lead mining town of over 6,000 people but now had about 30 people. I deposited my luggage at Keld Lodge and explored the beautiful countryside, skipping in and out of the Pennine hiking way- like the fresh lambs of the season. I noticed a few dead brown hares by the road side. There were stone barns scattered in the fields where farmers used to keep their cows in winter/harsh weather.
Children played in the cold waters (they have the skin for it). Chatted with a small family on a bridge over river Swale. Dinner of chicken in mushroom sauce and reading a book on the Celts- the original inhabitants of the Europe, by the waterfall, it was a day well spent. The night was
Keld residents had organised a beautiful paid evening of sky photography projections with hospitality of homemade cakes (madeira/brownies/pineapple cakes) and tea/coffee. Later, we went out in the open to identify the celestial beings. I was surprised to see shiny moving satellites in the sky which were surely spying on us or aliens? Fantastic to identify nebula in Orion, Polaris, Acuturis and Sirius.
After a full English breakfast, I trekked 8 miles from Keld to Hawes from Swaledale to Wensleydale. Given it was mothers day, I expected minimal traffic as the lads on motorbikes will spend time with their mothers. The mothers hardly would like to spend time in open countryside climbing up and down the hills! Being Sunday, there was no public transport.
Initially, it was an uphill walk. I was wondered whose brilliant idea was to construct these perpendicular roads? I crossed one hill over to another through the Buttertubs pass (526 ms is the highest point). The hills felt like green pistachio ice cream spread generously all over the slopes with a tiny ribbon of a river flowing down. The moors had pheasants like red grouse and other birds chirping about. There
were a few cyclists and cars. Overall, a beautiful sunny day for hiking and very much enjoyed the natural beauty of Yorkshire dales.
Downhill, I observed more sheep and lambs. A rude traveller said it was my problem when I asked for directions (I could not read the signs with my glasses).
