After leaving Khartoum, we made our way north to head to the true purpose of our trip: Meroe. We had to go through multiple checkpoints, where they checked our exit visa for leaving the city of Khartoum (expensive). Along the way, we stopped at a couple of roadside areas, and met our cooking crew who prepared all our meals from this point forward: lunch on the road and our camping meals. We had lunch at a random roadside structure in an open room. I thought at first that it was some hidden restaurant, but it was our cooks. The food was pretty good, but we were a bit late and it was cold and flies were everywhere. You had to get used to that here.
Our first stop along the road was a small, colorful mosque our team leader had noted the last time he came and he wanted to see it up close. So, we pulled over and crossed the train tracks to take a look. It was prayer time, so people were also heading over and at one point, an older woman took me by the hands, encouraged me to take off my shoes, and took me
into a small room where they were praying around something in the middle. It was very crowded and I felt like an intruder, so I left, but it was a very interesting experience - I wish I knew what was happening.
We continued on, stopping a couple of times for our lunch and bathroom or tea breaks. Our last stop was at a fairly busy market area with an open air bistro place where a woman made us coffee and tea while we sat and rested. It was a bit strange and entertaining to have reversed roles where the people so blatantly stared at us and took photos of us. Plus the tea was the best I had had so far.
We were looking forward to making the pyramids site for sunset, which we did. However, the weather was bad - very dusty, windy, and hazy, so no good photos. However, the experience was still great! We drove through the desert to the center area where we saw camel riders alongside us most of the way, waiting to take us to the site if we chose. We walked a short distance, about 10 minutes, from the visitors
center to the south cemetery pyramids. It was so cool as you can get right up next to them and walk amongst the ruins at will. After a quick look around, we returned to find our campsite set up near the visitors center and food being prepared. We hung out for a bit and got to know each other better, hiking a little at night and enjoying the stars. The food was pretty good as well - fried chicken, fruit, salad, French fries.
We each had picked a tent, though they were a little worse for wear - with the high winds that night, we woke up with sand all over everything. One persons tent collapsed and another had to up. It was pretty funny. So none of us really got any sleep. We woke early in the morning and walked through the southern cemetery again to enjoy the sunrise over the northern cemetery, a little better with clear skies. It was very peaceful. When we returned for a quick breakfast, the vendors were set up in a semi circle near our camp, ready to sell trinkets. Most of the vendors were kids. They gave us space, allowing
us to eat breakfast and packing peace, but once you got near to them, they were all business. I think this was the weird part for me, including the camel guys - few friendly smiles, little engagement, just money, money, money. It was strange, and I cant quite put into words why. However, I did like that they generally left you alone. Once we were packed and ready to head to the northern cemetery, we first stopped at the visitors center where they had basic descriptions and photos of the site. It was quite interesting to see how the pyramids were laid out. Most of us wound up taking a camel instead of walking to the northern cemetery - why not? It was $10. These camels were very high and the saddles quite narrow, so it was different from my previous experience. Again, not super friendly guides, especially since they found out I was not paying another $10 for the short ride back.
