I exited the Xtrk at 6.45am on a very, very cold clear sky morning. I hadnt walked 2m before 6 kookaburras sitting together 5m on a tree branch about 30m from me began their laugh, and laugh they did, waking anyone who was still asleep at that stage, for a full 2 minutes It was sensational. I had heard kookaburras laugh before but not that many all at once for 2 minutes. Those brave enough to test the outside cold stumbled from their warm interiors to check out nature at its best again. We conversed with a few fellow travellers and visited the inside of their caravans as we discussed the type of van. Jane is nearing the end with canvas! I quite fancy the outback type. Will do some research. the 8km Wangarra Lookouts walk, classed as moderate. This took us along the Arkaba River, presently, very low, through massive river gums to the Hills Homestead where we continued on (up) to the lower and upper lookouts giving spectacular views over the inside of Wilpena Pound and the Hills Homestead below. We read the story of the Hill family through the eyes of the 9th child, a daughter. Resilience. Enough said. On the way down I Yes, seriously. I still had 4 plus km to walk. Resilience. Enough said.